Chapter 16: A Driver’s Paradise: The Heavenly Road of Huizhou

In recent years, the national poverty alleviation policies have truly been beneficial, and the entire village of Xu Baishan has reaped the rewards. He took Jiang Yuan and two others to the village to observe the production techniques of machine drying and charcoal fire drying. After returning home for lunch, around one o’clock, the group headed to the orchard on the mountain to shoot video footage.

The mountains were indeed covered with Torreya trees, their branches laden with heavy fruits. The Torreya nuts resembled olives but were rounder and more charming. They clustered in groups of three or five. Sunlight filtered through the leaves, casting speckled patches of light on the fruits, bathing them in a golden glow that made them look plump and enticing, painting a breathtaking pastoral scene of harvest.

The air was filled with the unique freshness and fragrance of Torreya—a distinctive blend of fruity and woody aromas that refreshed the spirit. Jiang Lanfang picked the nuts alongside Xu Baishan, while Jiang Yuan held the camera filming. Even Cheng Qingyan was operating a drone to capture distant views. Everyone worked together, and before they knew it, the afternoon had passed.

As the sun began to set, they descended the mountain. Xu Baishan deliberately took them on a detour to see several ancient Torreya trees thriving in the village. One of these ancient trees was over six hundred years old, with a trunk circumference of 7.4 meters, standing more than 30 meters tall, and its canopy covering over an acre of land. At about one foot above the ground, it sprouted more than twenty branches. Each year, the villagers harvested hundreds of pounds of Torreya nuts from it, earning it the title of “Millennium Tribute Torreya King.”

Jiang Yuan embraced the trunk of one of these ancient trees. Its sturdy and rustic grandeur was impossible to encircle with her arms, a testament to its resilient vitality over centuries.

Squatting to pick up fallen Torreya nuts, Jiang Yuan proudly said, “Six hundred-year-old nuts must taste even better. I’ll roast some when I get home.”

Xu Baishan replied, “These wild Torreya nuts have a harder texture and are called ‘wood Torreya.’ They aren’t favored in the market. Back in 2002, the village introduced the fine Torreya from Zhejiang, which is crispier and yields more fruit than the wild variety. This improved breed has greatly enhanced both quality and quantity, pushing prices higher.”

“Oh, I see.” Jiang Yuan’s enthusiasm for picking the nuts waned.

That evening, Xu Baishan insisted they stay for dinner before leaving. However, since the return trip was two hours away on winding mountain roads, it was unsafe to drive after dark. Jiang Lanfang insisted on leaving early, prompting Xu Baishan to relent. “Alright, little sister, I’ll come to Yu Village tomorrow and teach you how to make Torreya.”

After getting into the car, Jiang Yuan waved through the window, “Uncle Xu, see you tomorrow.”

Xu Baishan’s wife hurried out, handing them a plastic bag of mountain produce through the car window. “These are mountain goods from our home. Don’t mind them—besides Torreya, we’re known here for Taiping Houkui tea and red chili peppers. There’s also some homemade dried sweet potato in the bag. Little girl, have a taste.”

Jiang Yuan’s mouth watered. “I love dried sweet potato! Thank you, Auntie.”

Xu Baishan’s wife beamed warmly. “No need to be so polite! You can’t buy this kind of dried sweet potato outside. If you like it, I’ll make sure Old Xu brings more next time.”

On the way back to the city, Jiang Yuan kept munching on the dried sweet potato. It was indeed delicious—soft, fragrant, and sweet, with a white frosty coating known as “sweet potato frost” on its surface, giving it a tempting sheen far superior to the machine-processed varieties sold elsewhere.

She could only recall eating this kind of dried sweet potato during childhood trips to the mountains with her grandmother visiting relatives.

Cheng Qingyan was driving and smiled. “Is it really that good?”

Jiang Yuan nodded enthusiastically and, on a whim, said, “It really is. You should try some too. I think we could make an episode about how to make dried sweet potato.”

Jiang Lanfang took two pieces and ate one. “This kind can only be dried at high altitudes. It can’t be made in Yu Village. I once ate something similar when I went to Baiji. I even tried making it myself, but couldn’t get it right. Old Cheng, give it a try.”

She handed the other piece to Cheng Qingyan.

He took a bite and commented, “It’s very soft but not sticky, definitely different from the ones you buy in supermarkets. It has a nice chew.”

Jiang Yuan sighed, “Mom, is it really impossible to make? Could it be the sweet potatoes themselves? Maybe one day we should visit Baiji, buy some sweet potatoes, and try making it ourselves. The soil and climate in the mountains might produce dried sweet potatoes like this.”

Jiang Lanfang considered it. “That’s possible. Alright, we’ll go to Baiji and get some dried sweet potatoes. Having them in the courtyard is part of autumn’s charm. I’ll try again to make this kind of dried sweet potato. It’s a childhood memory for many rural folks.”

Baiji is a place under Xiuning County in Huangshan City. Its main peak, Gecuan Peak, rises to 1,481 meters, a tranquil southern region where blue skies meet white clouds. It combines waterfalls, canyons, forests, and ancient villages, earning the nickname “the last Motuo in southern China.” The Huizhou Tian Road leading to Baiji is the highest highway in Huangshan City, known as the “road to the clouds’ horizon,” and is a top choice for many self-driving tourists, rivaling even the southern Anhui section of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway.

The unique environment and soil of Baiji give its sweet potatoes a distinctive character—sweet in taste and rich in vitamins and minerals. Locals praise Baiji dried sweet potatoes as “Baiji’s soft gold.”

Cheng Qingyan, an avid self-driving traveler, had heard of Huizhou Tian Road but never visited. Hearing the mother and daughter talk about Baiji, he said with interest, “Whenever you go, count me in. I’ll be your driver, and we can bring along my nephew for a trip to Baiji.”

Jiang Yuan was excited. “Great! Let’s invite Cheng Yubai too. I’ll tell him.”

She sent a message on WeChat to Cheng Yubai.

Cheng Yubai was in a hotel room, working on scene designs on his laptop, trying to incorporate Hui-style architectural elements. He had created many scenes and tried different approaches. He didn’t check his phone when the message arrived, only opening it after finishing his creative burst and wanting to rest his eyes.

Cheng Yubai replied: “Where are you? Is it fun?”

Jiang Yuan, dozing in the car speeding along the highway, yawned as she replied: “You can search ‘Huizhou Tian Road’ on Xiaohongshu. It’s one of the highest altitude self-driving roads in our province, with stunning scenery. Along the way are Dafengjian Viewing Platform, Qingxi Village’s Changjian, Baiji Village, Baizhangchong Waterfall, Huangmao Waterfall, Huizhou Grand Canyon, Yangshan Ancient Trail, Xiaotianlong Ancient Trail, Huikai Ancient Road, Red Army Trail, Centipede Ridge Terraces, Sea of Clouds spectacle, Huashan Cliff Inscriptions, and more. It’s known online as a paradise for self-driving tours.”